Rain, ice, snow and wind - isn't that a song?

TheTranzalpine train, unfortunately, deposited me in a place called Greymouth on the west coast. I kept looking for the tumbleweed, but even that had left town. It was raining and yes, it did feel very 'grey'.

After checking into a hostel the likes of which I've never quite experienced before - you feel ultimately unwelcome if you speak the wrong language and there's a strange damp smell seeping through the building - I strolled around to see what was on offer and to book my bus for the next morning. There was nothing on offer other than a few ponamu shops (Jade/Green stone) and a river. I nearly cried when the bus office said the bus might be full for the next day. Thankfully someone smiled on me and, oh yes, there is one seat left.

Franz Josef was the next stop (I keep spelling it different ways as all I know is it doesn't follow conventions!). Here I was met by truly stunning mountain scenery and a glacier. The sun even came out (please note - on the first day). I joined some fellow 'Magic Bus' travellers and the driver for a quick trip to the 'look out' points to see the glacier and take the obligatory photos. I even had my first encounter with a wild Kea (large green and orange parrot known for causing devastation to cars and dustbins due to it's curious nature and extremely strong beak). However, this one didn't appear to be the cheeky devil I had been led to believe; it simply ignored me. pah.

Spot the glacier

The group I was with decided to tramp (walk/hike in NZ) the leisurely track back onto town. Three and a half hours, two swing bridges, three creek crossing, several up hill climbs (ooo how I love those) and a group bonding experience later and we hit the pub at the other end. Well, it was well deserved no? The route was great in truth and I could really see, as I passed green clad trees and waterfalls, why Lord of the Rings was filmed here. It is a place of magic. Sorry - hippy again.

The next day the heavens opened. I haven't seen rain like that in a very long time. What a pity I'd chosen that day and not the gloriously sunny day before, to book my walk up the glacier. I donned the free 'waterproof' (ha ha) jacket and trousers and the boots that were a size too big ("don't worry love - have another pair of socks") and set off.

We walked to the glacier via a valley interspersed with small creeks. My feet stayed dry en route as I sensibly avoided the large puddles and used stepping stones - why get wet if you don't have to?

The glacier itself was nice. It would have been nicer without the rain and the strange, worrying groans and cracking noises that even had our guides ears pricked up. There were some beautiful ice formations that really shone icy blue (sorry - obvious adjective there). It was so wet though that pretty much everyone in the group was reasonably pleased with a 'ah that's nice, shall we move on?'.

On the way back we waded, with large men/guides hanging onto to us for fear we might get swept away, through thigh-high(!) torrents of gushing water that had swelled the creeks in a matter of minutes.

On our very wet return, I realised I'd rather stupidly forgotten to take every important document I own out of my day pack (including my passport). My dorm room looked rather strange as I spread my paperwork out in a vague effort to return it to it's former glory - not sure what the check-in staff will think of my ticket however. Unfortunately, my camera didn't venture out it was too wet, so no nice pics or photographic evidence that I did it at all. I did (and still do) have a blister though - extra socks - yeah, thanks for that.

The next day, as I left, the sun was shining in all it's glory. Next stop Wanaka.

The sun shining on the peaks as I left