Whistle-stop Cambodia

So 2007 began with a hangover best cured by the blue sea, the hammock and more good food - I expect anyone reading this to yawn at this point!

On the second of Jan we set off for Siem Riep in Cambodia - the city closest to Angkor Wat and surrounding temples. To get there, we left at 7.30am from Koh Chang, with the assurance we would reach Siem Riep by 5pm. Ha. That's all I can say - literally. Anyone who's travelled to Siem Riep from Thailand will know exactly what I'm talking about... The Lonely Planet guide describes the road from the border point to Siem Riep as the 'boulevard of broken arses'.... no prizes for guessing why... Not only that, but the journey is strife with various 'scams' designed to make you accept the accomodation you are dropped off at, rather than hunting round for something far more suitable (there's always a reason why the hostel/guesthouse needs this extra help!). You are so emotionally and physically strung out by the time you hit your destination, you literally don't care anymore as long as it's got something resembling a bed... All I can say is we arrived at approximately 11pm after a 'puncture', bouncing around like the National Lottery balls for six hours (The Cambodia leg of the journey only) and irrate passengers, drivers and scam artists...

The first thing to hit me about Cambodia (one of the poorest countries in Asia) was the stark difference to Thailand... Stepping all of the ten metres across the border crossing seemed to land us in somewhere so completely different it was almost a shock. The smell was overwhelming at Poipet and the rubbish stood out after the relatively clean streets of Thailand. There is an obvious difference in the infrastructures of the two countries, but then considering Cambodia's horrendous (recent!) past, it's hardly surprising.

Siem Riep was a great place with a really nice feel to it. Obviously used to the drones and drones of tourists visiting the temples, it was pretty easy to navigate our way about. The 'hub' of the town for tourists was around the old market (more shopping!!!) and had many bars and restaurants, including 'Angkor What?' bar - a firm favourite... The French colonial link showed everywhere too - loads of colonial buildings and many people speaking French.

We hired a tuk tuk and driver who was called Mr Lucky (possible as he was born around the time of the famine in the early 80s). He took us to Angkor Wat for sunset on our first day and then for a mammoth tour the next day, which lasted from 5.20am to 4.20pm!!

Sunrise over Angkor Wat

We still didn't manage to see half as much as we'd have liked, but time was precious so we squeezed in as much as possible to one day.... I can't begin to describe the temples - they are awe-inspiring, beautiful , powerful, phenomenol (to give it a try and still do them no justice!). They do look like they are out of film sets (used in Tomb Raider etc) or like the entrance to rides at Alton Towers.... you have to keep reminding yourself they are very real. The Cambodians take such pride in them. They have a picture/emblem of them on the flag, on beer labels, on money, on pretty much everything.... and I'm not surprised. I would truly love to see them again someday; watching sunrise over Angkor Wat was something else.

Bayon Temple (Temples of a thousand faces)

The Jungle takes over

In the evening after a hard day at the temples, we were recommended a 'buffet' dinner and cultural show by Mr Lucky - the deal was he got to eat free if he took us and as most Cambodians live on less than 50p a day, this seemed like a fair deal. The 'all you can it' buffet was great - the show ok (lots of singing and dancing but the usual 'tourist' do).

Our final day was spent catching up on sleep, internetting and general necessities like travel arrangements. Wanted to go along to one of the many schools that are asking for help and donations from travellers - one in particular which took ophaned children (the majority orphaned through AIDS) and gave them a free education - but regretfully ran out of time. Still hope to contact the school and see if I can't muster something from the UK... There is currently 25% of the population who are illiterate and it usually costs to go to school.

On 5th Jan we left for Ho Chi Minh City via Phonm Penn on yet another horrendous 14 hour bus journey... this time it wasn't so much the roads, but more the fact that I developed the worst cold/flu like sympotms I have had in years! I felt guilty for even being on the bus - coughing and sneezing and generally spreading disease. The worst point being the border crossing to Vietnam. Should I have checked the 'yes' box when asked if I had any flu/temperature/fever symptoms? I think not! Remember SARS? They do here. There was a momentary moment of concern when waiting in the border crossing buildings - Jon had to keep telling me to put my tissues away as we were getting quizzical looks from border guards. I just felt like collasping on the floor. As I wasn't locked up in a high-security quarantine ward, our travels in Vietnam started....